How to spend a long weekend in Brixham, South Devon
If you’re looking for somewhere by the sea for a weekend break, then look no further than Brixham. It’s a small fishing town on the Torbay coast in South Devon with one of the largest fishing fleets in the UK. The bustling, but compact, port is sheltered by rows of multi-coloured buildings that stretch upwards from the clear blue harbour waters. It’s an ideal destination for couples wanting a stress-free long weekend.
What to do in Brixham
Whether you’re wanting a lazy weekend away or you fancy being more active, Brixham has options for everyone. For those feeling less adventurous, you can spend hours sitting by the harbour and watching the world go by. A gentle meander along the mile-long breakwater out to the lighthouse will help you work up an appetite for a seaside treat as you take in the views of the Torbay coastline.
Right in the middle of the harbour, you’ll see a full-size replica of the Golden Hind, the Tudor galleon that Sir Francis Drake sailed on when he became the first Englishman to circumnavigate the world. In the summer months, you can buy tickets to explore onboard from the booth right next to the ship.
If you’re feeling energetic, hit the South West Coast Path and follow it from Brixham over to Paignton. It’s a challenging and undulating walk, but the views are spectacular. I can see why this area is known as The English Riviera. The crystal-clear water lapping the edges of the isolated coves looks more like far more like Italy than England. It really is breathtaking.
Depending on how sprightly you are, it could take around four hours to walk the five miles to Paignton – despite Google Maps telling you it should take less than two hours. The good news is you can easily catch a 15-minute bus back to Brixham (£3.50 for a single journey), so you don’t have to worry about trekking back as well. Be sure to take a bottle of water with you and perhaps an outrageously decadent doughnut from The Curious Kitchen to keep your sugar levels up!
It’s easy to get out on the water from Brixham. You’ll find a row of five kiosks on the north side of the harbour, where you can book an array of boat trips. You could get the ferry to the neighbouring towns of Paignton or Torquay, you could join a wildlife cruise or even book a deep-sea fishing trip. If you’d rather be in the water than on it, you can swim at Breakwater Beach at the eastern end of the harbour or hire kayaks and paddle boards from nearby Broadsands Beach & Watersports.
For a change of scenery, take a day trip to Dartmouth. It’s around 40 minutes away by car, including taking the car ferry across the river. The crossing only takes a couple of minutes, but it’s a quirky experience. We chose the more rustic Dartmouth Lower Ferry (£11 return) and managed to park for free at the Old Market Car Park. Once you’ve parked up, start at Bayard’s Cove Fort and wander northwards along the River Dart towards the Britannia Royal Naval College to take in the views of both sides of the river. Make sure you stop at The Singing Kettle for a traditional, and delicious, cream tea.
Where to eat and drink
For a relatively small town, there’s a great choice of quality cafés and restaurants to enjoy during your long weekend away. A word of warning though, you’ll need to book at popular restaurants such as Rockfish and Shoals. I learnt that lesson the hard way!
First things first, you can’t have a weekend by the sea without fish and chips. Unsurprisingly, there’s plenty of options in Brixham, but I recommend ordering from Brixham Fish and then finding a spot to eat on one of the benches alongside the harbour for the full seaside fish and chips experience.
An unexpected foodie treat is Miguel’s tapas restaurant. Nestled in a narrow alleyway a few metres back from the harbour, it’s a little taste of Spain in South Devon. The tapas is authentic, the service is fantastic and the sangria is always flowing. The restaurant doesn’t take reservations, so you’ll need to be lucky to score a table but it’s definitely worth a try.
When you’re in Devon, you need to have a cream tea. Or three. Head to Crusoe’s on The Quay for a tasty cream tea with the best views on the harbourfront. The light and airy restaurant is upstairs, so feels like a calming oasis above the hum of the harbour below. The evening menu looked delicious – a perfect date night restaurant!
After all that food, it’s time for a drink. Now, Brixham isn’t the place to go if you’re looking for a wild night out. But if you’re after a nightcap in a quality venue, then Liberty Tea Parlour and Cocktail Bar will be right up your street. Their espresso martinis are the perfect way to end the evening.
Where to stay in Brixham
We stayed at the Quayside Hotel, right on Brixham Harbour. With a harbour-view room and free parking, this place is a little gem. While it might not be the most modern or luxurious hotel, the rooms are comfortable and the location is ideal.
If you prefer the self-catering option, there’s lots of great-looking apartments available from Brixham Holiday Homes and, of course, good old airbnb.
Getting there
It took us a good five to six hours to drive from Essex to South Devon, so we definitely appreciated having the long weekend away rather than just an overnight stay. Halfway home, we came across Teals – the perfect pitstop off the A303 in Somerset. It’s a new farm shop and restaurant with the most incredible selection of food and homeware. Teals is about as far removed from your usual roadside services as you can get. It was such a treat to stop somewhere so lovely to stretch our legs and get a snack. It will definitely be our go-to stop on future trips to the West Country.
Brixham is an ideal staycation destination for couples looking for a long weekend away that’s not too far from London and the Midlands. The stunning coastal scenery makes you feel a million miles from home and the fresh sea air leaves you feeling refreshed and revived. With plenty of good food on tap, what more could you want?!
